Pastry #4: Pâte à Choux (Eclair)

The classic French eclair is a long, puffed up pastry that encases a smooth sweet cream and topped with a shiny chocolate. The name pâte meaning pastry and choux meaning cabbage together cabbage pastry does not inspire cravings for a sweet dessert. However, it does spark inspiration for what all choux pastry can be used to create. Here, we will stay within the dessert category for our eclair recipe, but I do challenge you to consider the possibilities for a dinner, savory, or other snack variety for this puffed, hollow pastry.

Learning about the variations of pastry cream (crème pâtissière) has been an enlightening and enriching educational experience for me. I am providing here 3 variations of typical eclair fillings to provide an explanation of the options available for filling choux pastry.

To summarize: crème pâtissière is a thick custard which is typically piped into pastries such as profiteroles (round, filled, usually frozen pastry), cream puffs (round, filled pastry), or eclairs (long, filled pastry). When whipped cream (crème Chantilly) is added to crème pâtissière, it becomes a light cream (crème légère), which can also be pipped into pastry. If gelatin and optionally other flavoring is added to a crème légère, it becomes a crème diplomat. Whew, that is enough crème!

I am including 2 variations of the Crème Légère under [Filling 1] and [Filling 3] [Option 1] to show that the significant part to making a cream is the richness the eggs bring and their reaction with the heated milk. While every recipe needs balance, the amount of the ingredients and the order they are incorporated is not as significant here (i.e. if the vanilla is added pre-heat or post will not make a huge difference). Try the variation that suits you best and determine for yourself which you prefer.

crème pâtissière

[Filling 1] Crème Légère (light custard) is made by folding crème chanilly (whipped cream) into crème pâtissière (typical pastry cream). For the crème pâtissière, heat 3 cups (700ml) of milk in a pot until small bubbles form, but does not boil (175-180F). Whisk 2/3 cup sugar, 1/4 cup cornstarch, 4-6 egg yolks and a dash of salt in a separate bowl. Drizzle the milk over the egg mixture, slowly, whisking vigorously to temper the eggs and combine the ingredients. It is not necessary to completely pour the hot milk into the eggs, just enough to temper (warm) the eggs without curdling them. If there is some curdling, it can be whisked or filtered out. Return all contents to the pot and continue to cook on a medium heat, stirring for about 2 minutes. Some bubbling or boiling is okay at this stage. Optionally you can add 1-2 tablespoons of butter here for taste, but I would not recommend for a piping consistency. Once it has been reheated, transfer crème pâtissière (custard) to a glass bowl, mix in the 1 tsp vanilla extract and cover with plastic wrap that touches the surface (don’t skip this) and allow to cool on the counter then refrigerate until chilled (4-8 hours).

[Filling 2] Whipped Box Pudding is exactly as it sounds and made by preparing box pudding according to the instructions then folding in whipped cream. Chill thoroughly before pipping.

[Filling 3] [Option 1] Fresh Mint Whip is prepared from scratch by making a crème pâtissière via heating 2 cups of milk almost to a boil, but not quite (about 175F), then removing the milk from the heat and adding in at least a packed 1/4 cup fresh mint leaves. Allow to steep for 15-30 minutes, depending how intense you want the flavor (more leaves and more time leads to a stronger flavor). When the steep is done whisk 1/2 cup sugar, 1/4 cup cornstarch, dash of salt, and 1 tsp vanilla extract in a separate bowl. Then strain the milk through a sieve back into the pot adding the sugar mixture and whisking thoroughly and immediately return to heat and continue to mix as it thickens. Separate and beat 2 egg yolks in the separate (previously used as the) sugar bowl then slowly add them, while whisking constantly, to the milk mixture. Once homogeneous remove from heat, cover with plastic wrap, touching the top of the cream to prevent the crusty film from forming and allow to cool. Move to the fridge after initial cooling to speed up the process. Optional to add dissolved gelatin for a thicker pudding. Make the whipped cream when the custard has cooled completely. In the summertime, place a metal bowl and the cream in the freezer 15 minutes before whipping to ensure it stays cold. Whip 1 cup of heavy cream (double cream), sprinkling sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time (2 total) until soft to medium peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the Creme Patissiere until a thick, but light Crème Légère is formed. [Option 2] Alternatively, prepare using a box of cook and serve pudding. Heat the milk according to the box, but then remove from heat and allow fresh mint leave (or peppermint extract) to steep in the milk, off the heat for 15-30 minutes. Strain out the leaves, return to heat, and prepare according to pudding box instructions. Add green food dye to the custard before it cools, if desired.

Take-Home Tips: Although a piping tip is not required to pipe the choux, I do recommend using one to manage the cream into the pastry. If you do not have one, you could cut the eclair in half lengthwise and pipe in cream then put the halves back together. Any flavor of cream or pudding will work for the inside. If you experiment with non-vanilla flavors, let me know your favorites! (I thought about crushing Oreo’s to make a cookies and cream filling.) Adding the raspberries on top really stepped up the beauty and flavor of the eclair. Smoothing the tops of the pastry helps with the external texture, but take care not to press down and flatten the shape.

Scoring: 10 of 10. This recipe is incredibly easy to prepare, tastes amazing (that cream!), has numerable variations for the filling and topping, could be used for a savory recipe, is light and great for a summer treat. It is not a heavy dessert, but gives the ideal combination of cool sweet cream, a light coating of simple ganache, and the slight crunch from the choux. We were all blown away by how little time these took to make for how fancy we felt eating them. An ideal party dessert for any occasion.

Published by Alycaria

An auditor with a degree in accounting and management, who would rather spend her days baking, writing, traveling, and photographing. She is known for her Heinz Ketchup obsession, all things purple, and determination to never give up. Life is more than work and money. Life should be full of adventures and planning the next one. Aly hopes to share with you her lessons learned, "bazinga" moments, and learn from you in return. "Knowledge has no value unless you use and share it."

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